Celebrating the legacy of a watch company like Vacheron Constantin, the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in Switzerland, poses a unique challenge. After reaching its 270th anniversary, a question arises for collectors: how to assess the true merits of each piece beyond merely comparing condition, rarity, complexity, and historical significance? With watches often showcased mainly at auctions, the quest to uncover the finest pieces continues to intrigue enthusiasts. The introduction of a new concept, the Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, aims to address this challenge by focusing on vintage Vacheron watches.
Inspired by auctioneer Aurel Bacs, recognized for his role with Phillips Auction House, the Concours will commence in November 2026. Given Vacheron Constantin’s extensive records, each watch that left its workshop is, to some extent, documented. Yet, the brand hopes that this initiative will help rediscover rare vintage references and possibly locate lost treasures from its rich heritage.
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The term ‘concours’ usually evokes images of luxury cars on pristine lawns, and while this competition is solely focused on Vacheron, it draws inspiration from motoring events. A panel of seasoned judges will evaluate entries divided into seven categories, including ‘chiming watches,’ ‘astronomical complications,’ and a category simply titled ‘design.’ There’s no entry fee, nor are there any monetary prizes; instead, winners will receive a trophy and the honor of public recognition in a display at a central Geneva venue.
“The competition is open to all types of watches,” states Morgan Maillard, a style and heritage expert at Vacheron Constantin, who also serves on the judging panel. “It could be an extraordinary King Fuad pocket watch with numerous complications, or a flea market find you have lovingly restored.” He adds that Vacheron’s collection comprises around 600 timepieces, but the brand has produced many more over its long history. Much of the collection remains unaccounted for, making this initiative a chance to rediscover lost pieces.
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The open call for submissions closed at the end of April, leading the Vacheron team to sift through the numerous candidates. A shortlist of five watches per category will then be selected for in-person evaluations and public exhibition.
Maillard notes that the review process has already yielded fascinating insights. “Some impressive designs have emerged, often accompanied by their original boxes and documentation, providing a captivating narrative beyond the timepiece itself. One watch that caught my attention is an early-19th-century quarter-repeater pocket watch, featuring a beautiful guilloché dial and an untouched movement. Its condition is remarkable.”
In addition to Maillard and Bacs, the judging panel includes experts from various fields, such as journalists, collectors, retailers, and a watchmaker. Uniquely, the panel includes Felix Baumgartner, a watchmaker known for his work with the independent brand Urwerk. His unconventional perspective is seen as invaluable. “Felix was a great choice,” Maillard explains. “He brings a different approach and has hands-on experience with vintage watches, including some Vacheron models.”
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While the notion of determining the ‘best’ vintage watches may seem simplistic, Vacheron Constantin emphasizes education and exploration over competition. The company’s existing heritage program, Les Collectionneurs, indicates no expectation of commercial gain from the submissions. The potential for the Concours d’Élégance Horlogère to become a recurring event in the watchmaking community remains open but without any formal commitment yet.
As focus remains on the inaugural event, Maillard expresses optimism for future editions. “If this one is successful, we have ideas for expanding it, possibly including other brands down the line,” he remarks.
