Louis Vuitton’s latest showcase highlighted the striking contrast between Gilded Age luxury and East Village street art, exemplified by a collection that emphasized contemporary travel’s influence on fashion.
Hosted at the Frick Gallery on Fifth Avenue, a renowned private art collection, the show drew inspiration from the vibrant works of Keith Haring, the Lower East Side artist currently featured in a retrospective at the Brant Foundation.
Nicolas Ghesquière, the brand’s women’s creative director, chose the Frick for this event after a visit to New York in November, where he admired Annabelle Selldorf’s $220 million renovation of the iconic Beaux Arts mansion, originally built for an early 20th-century steel magnate.
“As an outsider, I am continually struck by the duality of New York. It’s like two cities in one – downtown and uptown, constantly pushing boundaries,” Ghesquière remarked in a preview with Elite Traveler.
Upon returning to Paris, Ghesquière found renewed inspiration in a documentary about Haring, leading to the integration of the artist’s vivid characters into the collection: radiant children, whimsical devils, and barking dogs.
The brand’s archivist revealed that Vuitton had acquired a 1930 leather suitcase adorned by Haring in 1984 featuring his iconic radiant child. This special piece set the tone for the opening look of the showcase: a red silk cardigan paired with relaxed jeans and futuristic “liquorice leather” boots.
In a striking scene, a baby played with the latest distressed leather mini Vuitton bag, images of which had already begun appearing on advertising panels around Manhattan.
The collection featured a color palette inspired by Haring’s “non-neon, not completely fluorescent” bright hues, reflected in delicate, transparent knits with black graphic outlines. For evening wear, motifs of Haring’s barking dogs and Big Apple imagery adorned unconventional origami satin silk tops. Additionally, Haring’s distinctive squiggles were transformed into sultry spaghetti-like dresses crafted from stretch taffeta and guipure lace.
“This is a tribute to casual sophistication, a cornerstone of American fashion,” Ghesquière noted, donning a double-denim Levi’s outfit with worker boots for his bow.
This collection embodied Ghesquière’s signature blend of athletic sportswear, futuristic chic, and haute couture, particularly evident in the striking finale featuring athletic jumpsuits, polished denim track pants, and intricate leather skirts. One piece combined a macramé leather skirt with a stunning intarsia jacket portraying a barking dog and a human figure, a nod to Haring’s activism for the gay community and safe sex awareness. Despite Haring’s passing at 31 from AIDS, his cultural impact continues to resonate, with his murals visible across the globe.
Ghesquière also reflected the prim tuxedos of Gilded Age magnates in his designs, showcasing cropped tuxedos with striking lapels in vibrant blues and reds influenced by Haring’s art. He further incorporated elements of the Frick’s rich collection into flowing jacquard tops paired with leggings and athletic footwear, striking a balance between uptown elegance and downtown edge.
“This collection merges the two worlds of New York in a complex dialogue. Keith Haring began with street art downtown, his work transitioning to galleries uptown before achieving global recognition. He was a trailblazer in liberating expression,” Ghesquière stated.
The city’s competitive spirit reverberated through the collection which included boxing glove bags crafted from monogram canvas and handbags inspired by Frick’s iconic artifacts.
Ghesquière expressed reverence for the Frick’s unique ambiance, humorously remarking that he felt a ghostly presence guiding his creativity this season. His last collection in New York was seven years ago, set in the stark surroundings of Eero Saarinen’s TWA terminal at JFK.
Fashion from Ghesquière always demands attention and provokes confidence, as it is rarely created for passive wear. This distinctive approach has garnered a loyal following among notable figures in Hollywood and beyond, including Jennifer Campbell, Emma Stone, Anne Hathaway, Zendaya, Cate Blanchett, Iris Law, and Amy Adams, all present at the show.
Pietro Beccari, the CEO, emphasized in a recent interview that Vuitton encompasses more than a fashion brand; it embodies a luxury lifestyle rooted in travel. Ghesquière’s knack for venturing into innovative territory through artistic expression and striking silhouettes cements his role in crafting pieces that inspire wanderlust. Each outfit evokes a desire for adventure in stunning locales.
The dynamic energy of New York resonated through the event, heightened by a youthful cast moving through the Frick—a venue where social classes historically diverged. Socialites mingled under classical artworks, while industry insiders engaged in lively exchanges within the gallery.
The eclectic choice of music, featuring selections from Peaches, provided a contemporary backdrop and contributed to the atmosphere. Following the show, guests celebrated Ghesquière at Maxime’s, an exclusive establishment in the Upper East Side, where luxury persisted amidst the economic slowdown. Mobiles were kept at bay as diners indulged in exquisite culinary offerings, marking another iteration of Ghesquière’s connection to the Gilded Age.
