While wine consumption trends may fluctuate, the allure of exquisite wine and cuisine continues to entice travelers. Gastrotourism has emerged as one of the most vibrant sectors in the travel industry. Surprisingly, France’s renowned wine regions often lack quality accommodations, making it challenging to find delectable dining options, especially after hours.
Enter Denise Dupré and Mark Nunnelly, an American duo on a mission to transform this landscape with their establishment, Champagne Hospitality.
Launched in 2012, Champagne Hospitality is celebrated for the five-star Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa near Épernay, France’s second city. Their portfolio also includes the luxury villa Les 3 Clochers and the innovative biodynamic champagne house, Leclerc-Briant, which features a restaurant and guest accommodations—along with a luxurious hotel and villas in St Barths.
The couple is now setting their sights on Burgundy, unveiling the region’s first five-star hotel, Château la Commaraine in the village of Pommard. This venture holds personal significance for Dupré and Nunnelly, as it’s where they became engaged. Although based in Boston, they spend much of their time in France, including a residence in Paris.
The inspiration for Château la Commaraine came during a cycling excursion through Pommard’s vineyards a decade ago. “The estate embodies a genuine Burgundian essence, and I felt compelled to preserve its significance while reviving its legacy,” Dupré reflects.
@John Athimaritis
This historic property rests on the site of a fortified manor established by the Duke of Burgundy in 1112, later reconstructed in the 14th and 15th centuries into the charming structure visible today. Restoring this venerable edifice to five-star standards proved a monumental task; they once had to painstakingly disassemble and reassemble one especially historic wing, stone by stone.
Another draw for the couple is the Château’s vineyard, Domaine de la Commaraine, featuring a 3.5ha clos or walled vineyard nestled within the estate. With the pool, terrace, and numerous rooms overlooking these vines, guests enjoy an immersive experience in vineyard life. On my visit, aperitivo hour coincided with a jovial crew of workers traversing the vines. Notably, Paul Krug of the illustrious Krug champagne lineage oversees winemaking here.
Pommard’s clay-rich soils are famed for producing robust reds in the Côte de Beaune. The Clos de la Commaraine 2023 in magnum I sampled with Krug was exquisitely smooth, adorned with notes of almond, cherry, and lingering peppery tannins.
The hotel offers 37 luxuriously appointed rooms and suites, each decorated in soothing tones that harmonize with Burgundy’s signature honeyed limestone. A standout among these is the Signature Cuverie Suite, uniquely positioned above the cuverie where the wines are crafted.
The hotel boasts two dining destinations, guided by executive chef and Meilleur Ouvrier de France Christophe Raoux. My meal at the more casual Le Clos bistro featured innovative takes on classic Burgundy fare, complemented by a Japanese flair: grilled oysters in dashi broth; confit trout with yuzu. The hotel’s fine dining establishment, Le VIII, is set to debut in June. The wine list is extensive, showcasing Burgundy options alongside selections from the couple’s other ventures: Les Parcellaires de Saulx of Meursault and Domaine Belleville in Rully, as well as the compelling champagnes from Leclerc Briant. In the original 14th century tower, guests can also enjoy an exclusive little bar with impressive jeroboams of Chartreuse, perfect for post-dinner indulgence.
The concierge at the hotel is pleased to arrange a variety of activities, including wine tastings, horseback riding, sunrise hot air balloon rides, and E-bike tours of the vineyards. Guests can also indulge in treatments at the spa, offering MyBlend therapies and other luxuries.
Conveniently located just ten minutes from Beaune, the charming capital of Burgundy, the Château provides easy access to historic sites and culinary delights. Explore the illustrious 15th-century Hôtel-Dieu, renowned for its vibrant patterned roof tiles, and delve into the market hall that hosts the celebrated Hospices de Beaune wine auction every November. For a delightful nibble, visit Alain Hess épicerie on Place Carnot, featuring a remarkable selection of cheeses, including the house specialty, Delice de Pommard, a rich triple-cream cow’s milk cheese rolled in crunchy mustard seeds.
For wine enthusiasts, Anatheum offers an impressive array of wine accessories, maps, and literature. Conclude your visit at Caves Madeleine, a vibrant cave à manger, or enjoy a glass or two at the trendy wine bar Crème.
