The culmination of Milano Moda Uomo took place on Monday with Giorgio Armani’s second menswear show following the designer’s passing. This was preceded by stunning showcases from Ralph Lauren and Prada, alongside various presentations from numerous labels. Here are the highlights.
Milan Fashion Week Highlights
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s latest collection featured both his Purple Label and Polo lines, presented with a vibrant and spirited flair. He drew inspiration from collegiate style and the gentleman athlete, but his models exuded a contemporary aesthetic. They graced the courtyard of Lauren’s Milan headquarters clad in striking patchwork denim, mixed-print tuxedos, tailored coats, and relaxed blousons, often accessorized with modern necklines such as racing stocks and dandy bows.
The evening show featured Prince of Wales linen three-piece suits and silk tuxedos paired with cargo pants, delighting celebrity fans including Tom Hiddleston and Lewis Hamilton who cheered from the sidelines.
Prada
For Prada, it was a season defined by jeans—a departure for Miuccia Prada, who had traditionally shunned the fabric. In collaboration with Raf Simons, the collection showcased jeans in a range of intriguing styles, from Prince of Wales checks to transparent nylon, while tops were shrunken to create a contrast with the wider silhouettes popular elsewhere during the week.
Staged in a striking art setting, the show invited attendees to traverse a glass floor under fluorescent lights, enhancing the bold designs. “We aimed to redefine ‘nothing’—rejecting excess and pointless design,” the designers stated. This collection signifies Simons’ evolution from subversive designer to his prestigious role at Prada, embodying a narrative of growth in an industry facing challenges.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani delivered a double showcase featuring both menswear and women’s cruise attire. The lightweight materials, including semi-sheer linen tunics and elongated linen blazers, epitomized elegance amid the Mediterranean heat. The presentation took place in Armani’s private palazzo courtyard, adorned with chic beanbags and exquisite lamps, creating an oasis of tranquility.
Leo Dell’Orco, Armani’s successor, introduced soft-shoulder jackets and loose multi-pleat trousers in earthy hues, perfectly suited for the rising temperatures in Western Europe. The women’s collection featured luxurious sapphire silk tops and shimmering zig-zag boleros designed by Armani’s niece, adding a glam touch to the ensemble.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana made a bold entrance at their show titled “Vacanze Siciliane,” set against stunning imagery of Sicilian landscapes. The cast presented a vibrant display, donning silk tops and pajama-style pants embellished with strass, incorporating elements of leisure with elegance. The collection was a perfect prelude to their upcoming tour in Sicily, focusing on their Alta Moda and Sartoriale lines.
Tod’s
Diego Della Valle, the CEO of Tod’s, emphasized a commitment to preserving Italian craftsmanship with the introduction of the innovative Red Dot urban sneaker. This sneaker features indulgently soft suede coupled with a comfortable, lace-free fastening, showcasing a perfect blend of style and functionality. The collection presented at Villa Nechhi illustrated a laid-back chic ambiance, with an array of leather sweatshirts and colorful pieces in petrol blue.
Tailoring
At Dunhill, Simon Holloway drew inspiration from legendary British figures such as Anthony Snowden and Lucien Freud, infusing classic tailoring with modern proportions. Accessorized with silk scarves tied in unique knots, the collection showcased his interpretation of British elegance. Holloway introduced an eight-button blazer made from rare Escorial wool, emphasizing both sophistication and comfort.
His exploration of historical archives resulted in jacquard tuxedos and silk dressing gowns adorned with delightful motifs, weaving nostalgia into contemporary fashion.
Brioni
Brioni showcased the epitome of luxury in menswear with innovative cashmere suede, delivered in double-breasted blazers and travel jackets featuring practical newspaper-holding straps. Their presentation included exclusive eveningwear such as smoking jackets with luxurious Japanese bullion lapels, designed to captivate with both style and comfort.
Caruso
The collection at Caruso introduced a striking six-button double-breasted jacket with flared lapels, reflecting a bold approach to modern tailoring. The creative director, Max Kibardin, expressed his belief that men exude confidence in well-fitted suits. The presentation was smartly decorated in a way that highlighted a vibrant color palette, showcasing new elegant textiles.
Paul Smith
With Paul Smith, one could see Anglo-themed silhouettes reminiscent of travelers in Provence and Tuscany. Riffing on his own design legacy, Smith introduced tropical woven fabrics and unique seersucker, showcasing jackets that were unlined and soft in silhouette. Models walked through the Milan headquarters with a relaxed demeanor, embodying the spirit of effortless elegance.
Brett Johnson
Brett Johnson’s designs captivated audiences with an emphasis on casual elegance. Known for his collarless double-breasted jackets crafted from lush materials, his collection combined function and style, perfect for leisurely outings. Johnson’s creations included innovative field jackets with detailed pocket finishes, epitomizing subtleness and refinement through a charming summer palette.
Umit Benan
Umit Benan showcased an exquisite blend of comfort and luxury. His boutique stands out in Milan, offering luxurious silk pajama pants and cashmere blazers that resonate with ease. Benan’s meticulous attention to detail is evident in his garments, reflecting a gentle elegance appealing to a modern clientele. His dedication to quality was exemplified by the creation of ideal white jeans, a laborious task requiring numerous washes to achieve a chic softness.
Also in Milan, Eredi Zucca offers a unique barbershop experience blended with fashion. The establishment, with its history dating back to 1652, provides a luxurious grooming environment, complete with an impressive selection of fragrances inspired by Milan’s historical figures.
Oxblood
Emerging from a creative background in Los Angeles, Oxblood launched a surprising new boutique in Milan, featuring eclectic items like decorated clogs and spider-embroidered lingerie. This collection brings an avant-garde twist to luxury fashion, appealing to those seeking uniqueness in their wardrobes.
Malo
Reinvigorated under new ownership, Malo presents Italian luxury knitwear that rivals the likes of Loro Piana. Known for their exquisite cashmere offerings, the brand featured must-have crewnecks and stylish high-neck blousons. Their recent revitalization of the Milan boutique reflects a commitment to contemporary luxury, promising the latest in high-end fashion for their discerning clientele.
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli introduced garment dyeing techniques that transformed their cable stitch sweaters into rich visual textures. The focus remained on breathable materials with lived-in finishes that exhibited luxurious authenticity. While Cucinelli directed a film about his life for an international audience, his Milan presentation stood out with its thoughtful attention to detail and quality.
Accessories
For those traveling in style, a stop at Larusmiani provides an unmatched experience. Not only does it showcase high-performance cars in its window displays, but it also features bespoke creations such as luxurious humidors that echo the essence of fine living. With an interior designed by architect Benedetto Camerana, Larusmiani stands at the forefront of menswear sophistication.
Santoni
Santoni focused on exquisite craftsmanship with woven leather designs evident in various footwear and accessories. The CEO, Giuseppe Santoni, boldly reimagined traditional styles, presenting innovative takes on fisherman sandals and interchanging tassels for loafers, demonstrating a creative spirit and commitment to modern elegance.
