Between Loch Nevis and Loch Hourn, Knoydart represents a striking contrast in landscapes, famously referred to by their Gaelic names meaning “heaven” and “hell.” This isolated peninsula on Scotland’s rugged northwest is marked by challenging terrain that can only be accessed via a lengthy hike or a sea ferry. To many, it would seem a place of exile. Yet, when Christoph Henkel, a German businessman, first encountered this untamed area, he envisioned it as a sanctuary from the pressures of contemporary life.
Henkel, an enthusiastic outdoorsman with roots in the Austrian Alps, found his way to Scotland, where he became captivated by the Highlands. In 2019, upon learning that the Delwart family was selling Kilchoan, their expansive Knoydart estate of over 13,000 acres, he seized the opportunity and purchased the property.
Over five years, Henkel and his wife, Katrin, have transformed the land into a rewilded ecosystem, refurbishing existing cottages and carefully adding new structures. Their aim is to create a space where visitors can hike, fish, bike, and disconnect amid one of Britain’s few remaining wildernesses. The newly revitalized Kilchoan is set to welcome its first guests in June.
Courtesy of Dunton Destinations
Exploring Scotland’s Remote Highlands
In January, the tranquil winter landscape greets a traveler arriving at Inverness Airport, setting the tone for an immersive journey into the Scottish Highlands. The drive to Mallaig, a working fishing village and ferry terminal serving the Knoydart Peninsula, offers insights into iconic filming locations from Harry Potter and Outlander.
As gray clouds stretch overhead during the river crossing on the MV Western Isles, the calm waters remain inviting. This vessel, a wooden ferry operating for over sixty years, carries people and supplies across the remote terrain to the village of Inverie.
Mid-journey, the absence of human structures is striking, as if navigating a pristine landscape surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains. Nearing the destination, however, a cluster of whitewashed cottages appears, where about a quarter of the local community gathers, awaiting deliveries that include Amazon packages and local delicacies.
Rebecca Reid/Courtesy of Dunton Destinations
Among the welcoming crowd is Iain Biggart, Kilchoan’s estate manager, dressed sharply in a traditional tweed suit. He ushers the visitor into a rugged vehicle and navigates through the compact town, known for hosting mainland Britain’s most isolated pub, the Old Forge.
Just moments later, a wooden bridge reveals breathtaking vistas; rolling hills painted in warm earthy tones stretch endlessly, flanked by formidable mountains. This captivating landscape invites admiration and contemplation.
Upon arrival at the estate, Biggart switches vehicles and drives to Rum, one of three cottages designed in the style of bothies, named after nearby islands. Interiors echo coastal charm with sandy hues, while the Henkels have worked with London-based design studio Waldo Works to shape spaces that reflect the changing landscape yet provide comfort.
Dunton Destinations
Each of the accommodations features a blend of global and local furnishings, with Italian armchairs, British ceramic lamps, and tweed sofas sourced from nearby fabrics. Notable artworks—over 150 pieces—curated by Katrin herself range from the 18th century to modern times, adorning the walls of this unique haven.
Kilchoan offers a homely atmosphere with fully equipped kitchens, stocked with local brews, venison jerky, and artisanal cheeses. Alongside these, visitors may explore a curated selection of books, enhancing the cozy feel. However, the true essence of Kilchoan lies not only within its walls; it invites exploration of the rugged hills. Henkel reflects on this connection with nature, mentioning how observing the landscape can elicit profound experiences.
Courtesy of The Fife Arms
On a serene morning, while exploring the estate’s lower loch, the tranquility affirms one’s bond with nature. The calmness envelops everything—the sounds of flowing water, rustling leaves, and distant cow calls become amplified in this stillness. Henkel, with a penchant for seeking serene landscapes, discusses how solitude in nature invigorates his spirit.
The Knoydart region, once home to vibrant ecosystems filled with diverse flora and fauna, now faces restoration challenges. Years of agricultural development have led to significant ecological degradation. Only a fraction of the original Caledonian forest remains. Henkel’s choice of Knoydart for his latest project highlights his commitment to rewilding and sustainable hospitality practices.
Courtesy of The Fife Arms
Henkel is among a select group of wealthy individuals dedicated to restoring Scotland’s natural landscapes. His vision fosters not just an enhancement of nature, but a revival of rural communities. Investments in local tourism and conservation initiatives reflect a holistic approach to preservation and development.
As he gazes upon the land from Kilchoan, Henkel recognizes the enduring impact of regeneration efforts. Each reforested area signifies a step towards ecological restoration. Engagement with local stakeholders ensures a balance between modern tourism and heritage. Recent community-led projects are designed to revive trust among residents, previously eroded by centuries of dislocation and exploitation.
Through cooperative initiatives such as the Knoydart Foundation, the local populace has regained a degree of stewardship over their land. This collective effort not only enriches the community but drives sustainable growth, as seen in the efforts to revive local businesses and landmarks. As projects unfold, optimism for a future where nature and community thrive together becomes palpable.
Visitors to Kilchoan can expect shared meals, camaraderie, and a feast of outdoor activities, from hiking and fishing to cozying up around the Long House, a space designed for gathering and reflection. This project emphasizes the importance of sustainable practices while observing the call of the wild.
As Kilchoan develops into a hub of connection—between people, nature, and tradition—it represents a fulfilling journey toward a future built on mutual respect. In an era where more seek a connection with nature, Henkel’s vision for Knoydart stands as a hopeful model of harmonized existence.
