On a quiet street in Hondarribia, a simple dining room serves one of the most memorable meals one can experience. Andrés Castela, the host, expertly drizzles hot garlic oil over broiled monkfish and thinly sliced potatoes, causing a sizzle that nearly catches me off guard.
Castela, unperturbed, continues pouring the infused oil back into the pan, repeating this until the oil thickens into the luscious, creamy pil-pil sauce that is characteristic of northern Spanish cuisine. This rich sauce envelops the tender fish and is accompanied by a light tomato salad and fresh white bread for dipping.
However, securing a chance to taste this dish is not straightforward. Reservations can’t be made, and one cannot just show up. It is absent from guidebooks and unlikely to be featured in trending social media posts. Instead, a connection to an insider is required to access the region’s gastronomic societies, known locally as txokos, where residents prepare traditional Basque recipes passed down through generations.
These societies, initially established as male-only clubs from the late 19th century, have evolved. While membership was once largely hereditary, many now welcome women and children, and new members can be proposed rather than waiting for someone to pass.
A highlight of this culinary journey is a dinner at Klink, a society in operation since 1978, located about 14 miles from San Sebastián. Castela, now 68, was a young founding member and proudly displays his youthful self among portraits on the wall.
Steamed hake with seaweed, plankton, and oyster leaf ©Akelarre
As some members featured in the photographs have passed away, concerns arise about the future of these societies. Castela remains optimistic, noting the vibrant younger crowd that fills Klink in the evenings. “Lunches are often for older people, but we’re filled with younger ones at night,” he explains through a translator.
The society’s kitchen is equipped for professional cooking, yet the dining area fosters a homey atmosphere, intentionally absent of tablecloths or candles. Meals are served on long benches under simple strip lighting. The dishes, while unpretentious, showcase Castela’s decades of culinary expertise. Before the monkfish, diners savor sweet, tender white asparagus, silky jamón ibérico, and flaky bonito tuna that Castela preserves with spicy pickled peppers.
A refreshing glass of txakoli wine is served, poured from a height, a local wine that had a tarnished reputation previously but is now lauded for its refreshing qualities, thanks to innovative winemakers. Its saline minerality and slight fizz perfectly cut through the richness of the pil-pil. The meal culminates with pantxineta, a delicious puff-pastry pie filled with custard and topped with almonds, deemed a true Basque dessert, contrary to the trendy cheesecake that tourists often seek.
Klink stands out as it actively generates revenue to support local charities, from cooking for the elderly to funding community sports events. Some tourist spots are available through Ikusnahi Tours, a local company that emphasizes Basque culinary traditions through market tours, producer visits, and cooking classes.
Connections to these experiences can often be found through host establishments like Nobu San Sebastián, which opened in 2023 and offers stunning views of the ocean, as well as a chic outdoor bar that invites guests to engage with the local culture.
Accessing a gastronomic society requires effort; however, the experience is generous. Castela even encourages guests to take extra dessert upon leaving, inviting them back anytime. Despite perceptions of Basque locals being brusque, Castela’s welcoming demeanor contradicts this notion. “When you are here, you are at our home,” he says warmly.
To truly grasp the Basque Country’s deep-rooted appreciation for food necessitates an understanding of its storied history. The region boasts a rich culinary identity, dating back to approximately 1850. The movement known as ‘New Basque Cuisine’ emerged in the 1970s, marking a shift as chefs like Pedro Subijana and Juan Mari Arzak took inspiration from refined French cooking while showcasing local ingredients and traditions. San Sebastián has witnessed a culinary evolution, yet both Subijana and Arzak remain cornerstones of its vibrant food culture.
San Sebastián’s Culinary Landscape
The renowned three-Michelin-star Akelarre, just a drive away, showcases Subijana’s innovative approach and dedication to evolving cuisine. His restaurant features a state-of-the-art test kitchen where new dishes are devised, such as a local sheep’s cheese aged in anchovy brine. With an extensive tasting menu, lunchtime extends into the afternoon, and dinner often stretches late into the night.
Subijana exemplifies warmth, often joking with diners. His daughter Oihana manages the elegant dining room with a blend of charm and professionalism. Meanwhile, newer establishments like Itzuli—recently awarded a Michelin star—are also gaining attention. Here, Iñigo Lavado leads the kitchen, supported by his wife Arantxa and their son Julen, who oversees the wine selections. As the meal progresses, a connection is fostered, beginning with a handshake and concluding with a heartfelt goodbye.
The dining experience is enriched by Julen’s exceptional wine pairings that linger in memory long after the meal.
Exploring Pintxos Bars
Returning to town, the vibrant pintxos bars reveal a different side of San Sebastián. Scattered throughout the cobblestone streets, from Old Town to the Gros area, these lively venues offer an assortment of specialties. Each bar stands out with its own signature dish. Txepetxa is known for its piquant anchovies, while La Cuchara de San Telmo specializes in succulent suckling pig. At Gandarias Jatetxea, the solomillo delivers a two-bite experience of rare sirloin intriguingly paired with green pepper.
Popular among locals, Bar Nestor requires visitors to line up early. Its offerings include a soft tortilla laden with caramelized onion, salted Gernika peppers, and olive oil-infused tomatoes—all capped by impressive charcoal-cooked txuleta steak served on a sizzling plate. All this can be paired with a rich Rioja and finished with Cafe Casa, a tantalizing layered dessert.
For dessert enthusiasts, La Vina offers cheesecake worthy of a queue. This creamy slice captivates with its molten center and caramelized edges, best enjoyed with a drizzle of sweet Pedro Ximénez. While txakoli and even the unconventional kalimotxo—a mix of red wine and cola—are frequently served, each brings a unique flavor experience to the table.
On the final night, even after dining well, the allure of the pintxos bars pulls back for one last adventure. Sneaking a late-night bite of steak at Gandarias Jatetxea and indulging in the iconic cheesecake at La Vina encapsulates the culinary secrets of San Sebastián. Many doors remain closed, yet the city’s true gastronomic treasures await discovery.
