The weather in England can be notoriously capricious, yet the esteemed Public House Group—known for chic establishments like The Hero, The Pelican, and The Bull in Charlbury—might have presumed that the first week of June would be an ideal moment for their latest venture.
However, their assumptions were challenged as heavy rains swept across the region during the opening week of Canteen Cotswolds. This latest addition, a charming sibling of the popular Italian-themed Canteen London, is nestled in the picturesque Old Coal Yard, just a stone’s throw from the idyllic Chipping Norton.
Fortunately for the founders—Phil Winser, James Gummer, and Olivier van Themsche—their establishment has a stellar reputation. Despite the dreary weather, the first Saturday after opening saw the restaurant bustling with activity, its vibrancy spilling joyfully out the doors. Diners ranged from groups of jubilant friends to seasoned couples enjoying carafes of red wine, alongside new parents balancing baby toys and flutes of sparkling wine. The car park was a testament to local affluence, with a delightful array of Range Rovers parked outside.
Culinary Offering Inspired by Italy
Canteen’s menu, reminiscent of its predecessor, spotlights authentic Italian cuisine designed for sharing. As soon as we settled in, a warm focaccia emerged, its crust just crunchy enough to tease the roof of your mouth, generously anointed with peppery olive oil. Soon followed were delightful combinations: sweet charentais melon enfolded in prosciutto, white-base pizzas adorned with fennel salami, and steaming pasta exuding a rich sausage ragu. A notable feature is the chicken cooked in sage-infused milk, a star of the secondi offerings. Guests are encouraged to savor the last remnants of the savory sauce with piping hot, Tuscan-style roast potatoes boasting a crispy finish.
For those inclined to balance their dining experience, a fresh side salad, particularly baby gem lettuce drenched in a velvety mustard dressing, is a must-try. The Italian dining custom of indulging in a full pizza and pasta before moving on to main courses often leads to overlooked desserts. However, this was not the case here; virtually every table around us indulged in the decadent chocolate mousse, a signature dish from its acclaimed London counterpart, artfully drizzled with olive oil and finished with a pinch of salt.
Refreshing Beverage Selections
Complementing the culinary offerings, the drink menu pays homage to classic staples, excelling in simple pleasures. The martini, served crisp and chilled, is accompanied by a slice of lemon upon request, while the negroni captivates with its inviting aroma and straightforward brilliance. Except for a solitary Provence rosé, the wine selection showcases a diverse array exclusively from Italy, celebrating the country’s rich viticultural heritage.
A Casual Yet Inviting Atmosphere
True to its name, Canteen offers a relaxed dining experience rather than fine dining. Guests will not find pressed white tablecloths or designer cutlery; instead, seating options range from window-side tables to rustic picnic benches brought indoors. Friendly dogs can often be spotted discreetly tucked under tables. The service is genuine, cheerful, and attentive without pretense, ensuring that dishes move promptly—from your last mouthful of pasta to the arrival of exquisite mains.
With fingers crossed for brighter days ahead in the Cotswolds, one thing is certain: regardless of the weather, Public House appears to add yet another success to its distinguished repertoire.
