Last week, I immersed myself in the vibrant bar scene of New York, where the buzz among bartenders centered around Echo Lake. This new rum bar in Williamsburg is the brainchild of cocktail maestros Chloe Frechette, a former spirits journalist, and Paul McGee, known for his previous work at Chicago’s prestigious Lost Lake. Their airy warehouse venue combines tropical flair with sophisticated design, featuring rattan lampshades, a captivating fish tank, and a lush patio—yet successfully avoids Tiki clichés.
Exquisite Rum Creations
At Echo Lake, you can expect inventive takes on classic rum cocktails that truly highlight the spirit’s versatility. Signature offerings include:
- Seaweed Daiquiri: A flinty spin on the traditional drink.
- Pina Colada: An indulgent version enriched with sherry and lime.
- Rhum Arrangée: A unique take on the traditional French Caribbean infusion, served over pebble ice.
This stylish bar evokes a sense of freshness and modernity, reigniting my passion for cane spirits. As noted in the New York Times, “Everyone who’s anyone can be spotted on the back patio at Echo Lake.”
Undercurrent: A Hidden Gem
Even more thrilling than Echo Lake is its subterranean counterpart, Undercurrent—a candlelit speakeasy nestled in the cellar. This exclusive 20-seat venue features an impressive collection of vintage and rare spirits from the couple’s extensive repertoire. Adorned with burnt-orange chenille and rich red marble, Undercurrent invites you to delve deep into the world of spirits, offering guided tastings led by these charming experts.
A World of Rum Exploration
“The beauty of rum lies in its diversity; it’s produced in numerous styles worldwide—from Jamaica and Barbados to Cuba, South Africa, and even Sicily,” explains McGee. He highlights the innovative techniques used in distillation, including unique types of stills, molasses, sugar cane juice, and even heritage sugar cane varieties utilized in products like Clairin, a collection of rhum agricoles crafted by Haitian micro-distilleries.
Among the remarkable selections in their vintage rum collection, you might discover:
- A 1935 Bacardi Carta Oro, a pre-exile Cuban gem valued at approximately $1,200.
- A custom-crafted rum from 1963 created by the Tiki legend Trader Vic for his famous Mai Tai.
One tasting moment that sent chills down my spine was a sip of a British Royal Navy rum from 1955, kept in its original wicker-encased flagon. This rich, treacly blend of Guyanese, Trinidadian, and Barbadian rums was infused with notes of dark molasses, coffee, earthy mushrooms, and cinder toffee.
Aged Amari & Cocktails
Undercurrent also showcases a selection of vintage amari, many of which age beautifully. One standout was a 1970 bottle of Cynar, an Italian artichoke amaro.
Because of the delicate nature of these spirits, enjoying them neat is often the best approach. However, McGee also mixes classic cocktails using aged spirits, like a Daiquiri made with 1974 Puerto Rican rum Don Q, sweetened with golden caster sugar, or an Old Pal featuring 1960s Canadian Club Whiskey, dry vermouth, and 1970s Campari.
The bar menu also includes refined snacks such as oysters, crab butter toast, and snapper crudo, ensuring that your experience remains elevated.
The Future of Rum
As we move forward, the world of rum continues to innovate. McGee expresses particular enthusiasm for new rums from Oaxaca, a region traditionally linked to mezcal, and observes a potential synergy between rhum agricole and Mexican spirits. “There is a growing demand for unaged cane juice rhums from regions like Martinique, Reunion Island, and Haiti. Many rums from Mexico are also made from cane juice, offering a distinct character,” he notes.
Frechette adds, “Rum is often seen merely as a means of escapism, categorized as ‘exotic.’ Our goal is to present rum in a different light, revealing the rich stories behind these spirits. Good rum, much like fine wine, represents its agricultural origins—the cultivation, harvesting, fermentation, aging processes, and the diligent work of its producers.”
Whether you’re seeking the ultimate Daiquiri or a nostalgic sip of history, Undercurrent and Echo Lake promise a remarkable experience for all spirit enthusiasts.
Undercurrent and Echo Lake are both located at 357 Grand St., Brooklyn, NY, 11211.
