A hidden culinary marvel has emerged in Wales, where one of the UK’s most innovative chefs has introduced a modest eight-seat restaurant in a market town just south of Eryri National Park. This establishment, named Gwen after owner Gareth Ward’s mother, first opened as a casual wine bar in 2023, a venture by the same team responsible for the acclaimed two-Michelin-starred Ynyshir.
Earlier this year, Gwen transitioned from its original concept to a fine dining venue featuring a tasting menu exclusively. Since reopening in June, the restaurant has captured attention not just for its intimate setting, but for its ambitious culinary offerings.
At the helm of this venture is Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, a long-time friend of Ward and former executive chef at Decimo at The Standard, known for his distinctive touch across multiple restaurants in Bristol. In his new environment, Sanchez-Iglesias finds a renewed passion for cooking. “It’s wonderful to be back on the pass—many chefs don’t enjoy that anymore,” he shared, as he elegantly prepared pickled chilis. He emphasizes his passion for cooking over the business side of the restaurant, stating that this shift has significantly benefited his mental well-being.
Sanchez-Iglesias works closely with two colleagues: his assistant Finn Langley, who has just completed culinary studies at a local college, and Sam Clarke, the enthusiastic front-of-house and drinks manager.
The restaurant’s ambitious 20-course menu takes diners on a global journey through various culinary influences. Drawing from his Spanish roots, Sanchez-Iglesias features a vibrant gilda, where Iberico ham, pickled chili, an olive, raw tuna, and smoked butter are artfully arranged on a skewer for a singular, potent bite.
The culinary exploration extends to Mexico, featuring succulent spare ribs marinated in a flavorful Al Pastor sauce, and to Japan through a selection of fresh sashimi and creamy fatty tuna in sesame broth. Sanchez-Iglesias takes creative liberties with fusion cuisine, exemplified by a wagyu chili con carne served atop sushi rice, making the dish as inventive as it is satisfying. While 20 courses might seem overwhelming, the charmingly petite servings make the experience entirely manageable.
Surprisingly, for a restaurant with such sophisticated offerings, Gwen maintains a relaxed atmosphere. The compact building features a lively bar at the front and a cozy dining area that only accommodates eight guests, providing a clear view of Sanchez-Iglesias in action in the open kitchen. The walls are painted black, and the ambiance is enhanced by an eclectic playlist ranging from electronic beats to indie music. The bespoke cutlery and crockery, including unique knives crafted by in-house blacksmith Lee Jones, add to the charm.
As diners navigate through their meal, they find themselves moving about the space, starting with several courses at the bar, transitioning to the dimly lit dining area for a core selection, and then returning to the entrance for dessert. Although the experience is designed to last three hours, guests are encouraged to savor the moment, as evidenced by a leisurely lunch that extended well into the afternoon while they indulged in syrupy tres leches finished with clotted cream.
High expectations loom over Gwen. While Sanchez-Iglesias remains discreet about his ambitions for Michelin recognition, his front-of-house manager Sam Clarke is quick to point out the designated spot on the wall, already prepared for a prestigious accolade.
