Mexican cuisine is making significant strides in London, a city that has long been scrutinized for its limited taco offerings compared to culinary giants like New York, Los Angeles, and Miami. Over the last few years, however, a series of exciting openings has begun to redefine the city’s Mexican food scene.
Among the most notable advancements is KOL, led by Santiago Lastra. This two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Marylebone offers a tasting menu that celebrates seasonal British ingredients flavored with traditional Mexican techniques. The venue’s mezcal bar has evolved this past year into a dedicated space for desserts and cocktails to cater to growing demand.
The drive for authentic Mexican fare isn’t limited to upscale dining. Casual taquerias like La Chingada and Sonora Taquería have garnered dedicated patrons for their street-style dishes, showcasing a variety of offerings from slow-cooked birria to nopales, often paired with homemade horchata. In addition, the breakfast spot Bad Manners, located in a shiny Airstream in front of Shoreditch Church, attracts weekend lines for its loaded burritos.
Tequila has now surpassed gin as the UK’s favorite spirit, mirroring the burgeoning Mexican influence that has reached London’s cocktail scene. Margarita enthusiasts can find these drinks featured prominently on menus as mezcal bars proliferate throughout the city.
Next in line to join the trend is Los Félix, a Michelin-starred establishment headed by chef Sebastián Vargas, known for its focus on Mesoamerican cooking. The restaurant will be launching a month-long residency at The Ned, specifically at its Cantina Malibu location starting this June.
Chef Vargas believes that this partnership is timely. He appreciates London’s open-mindedness towards global cuisines while maintaining a commitment to authenticity and craftsmanship, attributes that align with his culinary philosophy.
This residency will explore traditional Mexican fare with a contemporary fine dining twist, emphasizing heirloom corn and freshly made tortillas crafted daily on-site.
Vargas expresses his excitement for focusing on ingredient quality and culinary heritage, stressing that the dynamics of this project with The Ned will celebrate more than just food; it will embrace culture, energy, and emotion throughout the dining experience.
Diners can expect a vibrant array of offerings showcasing Los Félix’s signature dishes alongside exclusive items tailored for the London audience. While vegetarian dishes are available, the menu predominantly features seafood and meat dishes: from crudo with seasonal catch to pork cheek carnitas paired with heirloom corn tortillas, and decadent lobster esquites with coconut cream.
For those wanting a standout dish, Vargas recommends the arepa filled with wild-caught crab, smoked corn, and charred plantains. He emphasizes how this dish encapsulates the blend of sourcing, culture, and flavor that defines the restaurant.
Alongside the dishes, guests can expect a selection of house-made salsas, complemented by Modelo Especial available on draught and a cocktail menu specifically crafted by Los Félix.
This month-long engagement is set to commence on June 4 at The Ned’s La Cantina, aiming to leave an impression that goes beyond mere dining.
Los Félix eagerly anticipates its London debut as a celebration of culture, culinary technique, and the importance of ingredients.
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Chef Vargas’s goal is to create a profound dining experience that resonates with guests on multiple levels. The intention is to convey warmth and meticulous craftsmanship, reflected in every element, from the tortillas to the ambiance.
