Pitti Uomo, renowned as the largest menswear fair globally, sets the fashion tone for the upcoming season every six months. The latest event hinted at a wardrobe where tradition meets experimental fashion, illustrating a contrasting dialogue between artisanal and avant-garde styles.
While this edition lacked the nostalgia of earlier Pitti events, several notable trends came to light after exploring key runway shows and numerous presentations. Tailoring for next spring appears to lean minimal, with fabrics that are lighter and colors that carry a muted palette. In stark contrast, shirts venture into the fantastical realm, and surprisingly, the kilt is making a comeback.
The recent three-day event marked the 110th anniversary of Pitti Uomo, concluding with a debut menswear show by Irish designer Simone Rocha, staged at Teatro della Pergola. A recipient of the 2024 British Fashion Designer of the Year award, Rocha mixes punk influences with historical references and a hint of transgression in her designs.
While Rocha’s lace-trimmed bloomers and pearl-embellished ballet slippers may not appeal to every man, her pearl-buttoned Venetian wool jackets, panelled rugby jerseys adorned with wingtip collars, and nappa leather dusters certainly stand out. Among her offerings, the silk, multi-pleated trousers are expected to be in high demand.
By fusing elements of her Irish and Chinese heritage with Elizabethan and Victorian influences, Rocha has established a worldwide brand since launching her first store on Mount Street in London.
Next summer is expected to see a surge in voluminous trousers. Kiton’s New Texture collection showcased wide double-pleat denim and copper cotton pants, complemented by sleek double-breasted jackets featuring a soft Neapolitan shoulder—impeccably crafted and devoid of breast pockets.
Pitti 110 comes at a pivotal moment for Italian fashion, as sluggish luxury spending in China and geopolitical tensions have led to a 2.2% decline in menswear sales in 2025, despite a 0.1% increase in exports to €8.8 billion.
As Antonio De Matteis, managing director of Kiton and Pitti president, noted, modern men are more willing to frequently update their wardrobes, which broadens the market and invigorates the industry.
This fair transformed Florence into a narrative hub, illustrated by an engaging cocktail party for Gucci Storia, recounting the illustrious history of the brand at Palazzo Gucci situated in Piazza della Signoria.
The creative director of Gucci, Demna, displayed a rarely seen boldness in his tribute to his brand’s legacy. One room was adorned with three massive Renaissance-style tapestries illustrating the history of the Gucci lineage, one portraying Demna in a fitting, striking a pose echoing the great masters of art.
Nearby, Sebago celebrated its 80th anniversary with a boat tour party on the Arno River, showcasing a unique motorboat crafted in the likeness of a classic Sebago loafer. This creative revival of heritage brands includes collaborations with Sundek, Woolrich, and K-Way, all under the entrepreneurial guidance of the Boglione family from Turin.
A tribute to Emilio Pucci, another Florentine icon, was held with a discussion led by noted fashion expert Suzy Menkes about his new biography, The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon. Pucci, a former bomber pilot, played a pivotal role in the Italian fashion renaissance of the 1950s, establishing a brand that remains a key player in the LVMH portfolio.
At the fair, 740 brands presented their spring/summer 2027 collections. In the midst of soaring temperatures, Antik Batik’s designer Gabriella Cortese introduced exceptionally soft and breathable khadi shirts, crafted by traditional methods from Calcutta. A fabric associated with self-sufficiency, khadi symbolizes a historic push against colonial dominance in textiles.
This year marked the debut of DSM Kei Ninomiya, launched by Dover Street Market, a concept store founded by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo. Situated in Sant’Orsola, a historical monastery, Ninomiya’s collection showcased edgy punk aesthetics, mixing plaid blazers, grommeted kilts, and biker jackets adorned with chains.
The display culminated in extravagant hairstyles, featuring giant mohawks topped with real flowers. While not all observers may be inclined towards such bold statements, the kilt’s reemergence as a fashion fixture offers a savvy alternative that promises to spark conversations.
