The world of fashion took center stage during the recent Paris Fashion Week, where the spotlight was particularly bright on Pharrell Williams. As the newly appointed men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton, he showcased a vivid collection, encapsulating the essence of modern menswear amid the historic charm of Paris. This event featured a rich tapestry of technical innovations, diverse characters, and refreshing reinventions of the male wardrobe.
The Highlights of Paris Men’s Fashion Week
Louis Vuitton
Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, presided over a spectacular showcase at Vuitton, where Williams brought to life a mesmerizing sunset scene. Models emerged from a giant wave, stepping onto a sandy runway, a massive production that took a month to prepare for a fleeting 20-minute show. The innovative format provided relief to attendees amidst soaring temperatures in France.
In a twist on surfing culture, models donned sharp two-button jackets paired with fluid pleated pants, carrying surfboards adorned with the LV logo. Williams remarked on the universal appeal of surfing, blending diverse styles—from checkered cardigans to dyed snakeskin jackets and luxurious mink sweaters.
The show crescendoed with a grand finale, complemented by an 80-piece orchestra and a gospel choir. Seated nearby were luminaries like French basketball sensation Victor Wembanyama and actor Jeremy Allen White. Sporting yellow sunglasses and an LV cap, Pharrell reveled in the moment, embracing his family before acknowledging Arnault, visibly pleased.
Dior
While Pharrell’s artistic vision sometimes faced skepticism, Jonathan Anderson, Dior’s creative head, flourished with a range of vivid ideas. He opened with impeccably tailored double-breasted suits featuring a semi-transparent plissé cotton, adding a modern sheen to traditional menswear.
The collection also introduced dressing gowns made from Donegal tweed, cotton, or silk, all styled with tuxedo shawl collars, presenting a new vision of sophistication. Further explorations yielded suede frock coats and inventive takes on the iconic bar jacket, complete with fabric tendrils. Shoes showcased embroidered velvet and brushed suede, adorned with floral motifs beloved by the house.
Set within the Nissi Camondo mansion, the show adapted to the heat wave by shifting to a morning slot, showcasing a bold, confident narrative. Anderson discussed influences ranging from contemporary parties to refined masculinity that embraces femininity, explaining the collection’s thematic evolution.
Berluti
Berluti revealed a series of small bags and wallets featuring intricate designs from Saint-Exupéry’s beloved “Le Petit Prince.” Their tailoring showcased luxurious leather jackets with a fresh patina, and a contemporary take on the field jacket stood out among the collections in Paris.
Christian Louboutin
This season brought forth a second menswear collection by Jaden Smith, marked by a conceptual art display. Following a Dadaist theme inspired by Greek mythology, the venue transformed into a representation of prehistoric Carnac’s stones, all drenched in Louboutin’s signature red.
A prominent sign welcomed guests to an ancient kingdom, leading to an exploration of Mark Rothko-esque lacquered bags and dance shoes, alongside playful interpretations including whimsical boots inspired by Salvador Dali.
AMI
AMI’s collection presented a refined view of casual sophistication, attracting a crowd of Parisian insiders. The co-ed fashion show at the Fondation Cartier revealed tailored track pants, sheer nylon cargo pants, and suave blazers accented with red panels, all embodying the essence of Rive Gauche chic.
Vetements
One of the standout moments in Paris came from Vetements when Sharon Stone made a striking appearance, clad in leather pants and an oversized white jacket, styled with a retro tie. The show was staged within a unique underground garage setting, adding to the edgy presentation.
Issey Miyake
The legacy of Issey Miyake, who passed away in 2022, continues through his dedicated team. Their showcase, aptly titled “In Praise of Bamboo Shadows,” highlighted garments featuring nature-inspired prints made through the artistic katazome dyeing technique. The collection included voluminous coats in tranquil colors inspired by foliage.
What stood out were innovative pieces crafted from actual bamboo fibers, integrated into futuristic designs, ensuring a perfect fit for the sophisticated traveler. The vision communicated a seamless integration of nomadic elegance with contemporary stylistic choices.
Givenchy
While there wasn’t a traditional show, Givenchy unveiled an impressive menswear debut on mannequins. The display included rugged double-breasted suits paired with detachable collar shirts, leather baseball jackets with nylon sleeves, and distinctive jerseys that capture modern masculinity.
Fans of high-end menswear could appreciate silk coats or bomber jackets adorned with floral embroidery. In a testament to its influence, the white suit worn by Timothée Chalamet at the Oscars made an appearance as well.
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe’s collection captured attention with a fresh spin on event wear. The creative mind behind the pieces articulated a transformative use of classic designs. He reinterpreted the iconic Chanel four-pocket jacket into a sporty top, reducing some jackets to the size of scarves, and innovating with filament jackets fashioned into gilets.
Collaborations with sportswear label Kappa included athletic pants crafted from denim and workwear transformed into chic canvas outfits featuring the DHL logo.
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner is set to unveil her inaugural menswear line for Hermès in early 2027. In the meantime, her independent brand displayed a captivating collection featuring stylish tailoring crafted in collaboration with Anderson & Sheppard, alongside an innovative take on track pants crafted from perforated mesh.
The designs cater to affluent travelers seeking an effortless sophistication, exemplified by striking wing-collared shirts designed to echo classic jerseys, adorned with pearl buttons and available in crisp whites as well as unique stripes.
Hermès
The absence of a designer at Hermès did not dampen creativity. The in-house studio premiered a collection characterized by refined luxury and sophisticated, understated elegance. The showcasing featured lustrous pony skin jackets in muted grays and sophisticated field jackets in perforated leather.
Notably, the revival of Hermès’s signature silk shirts embellished with equestrian-themed motifs added charm and a nod to its illustrious heritage.
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria exemplifies a unique voice in fashion, centered on Latino culture. His latest collection, titled “Communion,” took place in the solid architectural backdrop of Oscar Niemeyer’s iconic structure, merging revolutionary themes with contemporary aesthetics.
Guests witnessed a striking lineup featuring oversized suits and pajama-style ensembles, playfully styled under the Parisian sun. Chavarria explained that the heat influenced styling decisions, leading to a daring approach in design.
Commas
For a modern take on relaxed weekend wear, the Australian brand Commas has emerged as a notable contender. Recently, they hosted a memorable show at Tamarama Beach, where wild weather added an exhilarating edge to their presentation.
From dense linen field jackets to oversized, ribbed sweatshirts and eye-catching tie-dye shirts, eclectic pieces stood out. Not to mention a one-of-a-kind jumper that can be custom ordered, reflecting a unique blend of craftsmanship and creativity.
