Peru’s allure is as surprising as it is undeniable. One moment, taste buds are delighting in the last morsels of lomo saltado in Lima; the next, there’s an unexpected plunge into waters shared with piranhas, all amidst a calm that belies the adventure.
In a vibrant neighborhood like Barranco, Lima, food becomes more than sustenance; it evolves into an experience shared among new friends. Strolling through this culinary haven, one finds themselves savoring osso bucco and lomo saltado at Isolina, where traditional flavors meld with innovative presentations. At Hotel B, the city’s only Relais & Châteaux property, guests learn the art of crafting a pisco sour, enriching their understanding of Peru’s culinary heritage.
Alongside mouthwatering pork sandwiches at Juanito Barranco, a known gathering spot once frequented by Allen Ginsberg, the experience reaches new heights with a chocolate tasting at Ciclo’s Café. Within mere hours, a fondness for Lima can blossom, possibly accompanied by a quiet appreciation for foresight in packing a Tums packet.
(Dan Howarth)
The vibrancy of Lima’s food scene stems from its rich tapestry of influences. Indigenous Peruvian traditions intertwine with Spanish colonial elements, alongside waves of Japanese, Chinese, Italian, and African culinary practices. This melding produces a cuisine that dances on the palate, exemplified by the mastery of ceviche refined through Japanese Nikkei techniques that enhance its texture.
This excursion represents just a prelude to Peru, facilitated by Abercrombie & Kent and their premier offering, Pure Amazon, an A&K Sanctuary. The central experience unfolds over a four-night river cruise along the Marañón River, where guests first fly to Iquitos, then take a scenic bus ride to Nauta. For many, this is both an introduction to river cruising and an exploration of the Amazon.
Amazon Wildlife
(Cameron Sperance)
Embarking on the Pure Amazon on the first night sets the tone with joyful celebrations and cocktails, leading to suites that impress with their comfort and elegance. With a king-sized bed, a seating area, and floor-to-ceiling windows, guests enjoy panoramic views that invite them to catch glimpses of river dolphins at dawn. The room’s design offers a nod to the Amazon, while its amenities ensure a luxurious stay.
The Amazon’s complexity arises from its geography. The confluence of the Marañón and Ucayali rivers creates the Amazon, which flows eastward toward Brazil. The name changes to Solimões in Brazilian territory before reverting to Amazon upon reaching Manaus. Throughout the journey, visibility into the Amazon’s power becomes evident through both its seasonal rhythms and the lush ecosystems it supports.
Lima Ceviche
(Cameron Sperance)
This four-night voyage offers a serene escape from the hustle of urban life, encouraging guests to engage with the natural surroundings. Expert guides provide insights into the diverse wildlife, riverbank communities, and the waters teeming with fish. The experience includes catching piranhas, a humorous exercise that, according to guides, isn’t traumatic for the fish. This momentary thrill serves as a reminder of the uncomplicated joys found in nature.
Cameron Sperance catching a piranha at the Amazon
(Cameron Sperance)
The intimacy of a vessel designed for just 22 guests fosters friendships among travelers and crew. The culinary offerings exceed expectations, featuring multi-course dinners with wine pairings and lavish buffets for breakfast and lunch. A bar on board serves commendable cocktails, including martinis.
Passengers have the freedom to determine their schedule, encouraged to rise early for nature excursions to beat the heat. Afternoons present opportunities to unwind with a book in the upper-deck library or enjoy the whirlpool tub against a backdrop of the setting sun. High-quality binoculars and a telescope for stargazing, courtesy of A&K’s collaboration with Leica, add layers to the experience.
The Amazon rainforest is the perfect antidote to city stress with wildlife, vibrant waters, and ancient trees.
(Dan Howarth)
Excursions reveal a thriving ecosystem: pink river dolphins playfully surface alongside their grey counterparts while sloths hang languidly from branches. Kayaking and guided jungle walks provide alternative ways to appreciate the surroundings. Increased interest in experiential travel in the Amazon reflects travelers’ desires for deeper engagement with nature rather than typical forms of relaxation, like lounging on a beach.
While tourism in Brazil’s Amazon flourishes, the Peruvian Amazon remains comparatively tranquil. Travelers will often find themselves sailing the river with little company, save for occasional fishing boats and local barges, making for a more intimate experience.
Pure Amazon
(Abercrombie & Kent)
As the journey comes to a close, the departure evokes the warmth of parting with friends made on a shared adventure rather than merely concluding an extravagant escape. A&K’s commitment to the region extends beyond the voyage itself; one example is their support of Formabiap, a school dedicated to training teachers in Indigenous languages, ensuring the preservation of linguistic heritage for future generations.
This underscores a poignant truth: the most meaningful travel experiences aim to enrich both the visitor and the destination, striving to leave a place better than found.
