Paris Haute Couture Week, a biannual spectacle, unveils extravagant wardrobes for an elite clientele while showcasing the latest innovations from fashion’s foremost creators. This most recent round, featuring designs for the fall/winter 2026/27 season, leaned heavily toward artistic experimentation rather than mere styling.
Throughout the week, a fleet of limousines transported clients and celebrities between couture presentations and exclusive VIC dinner gatherings hosted by luxury brands like Dior, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Chanel. For the wealthiest women across the globe, couture represents an unparalleled hunt for uniqueness, rendering them, in a way, as privileged subjects in the testing ground for these prestigious labels. The outcomes can often be nothing short of astounding.
Dior
Among contemporary couturiers, Jonathan Anderson for Dior stands out for his innovative approach. This season, he drew inspiration from American artist Lynda Benglis, who navigated between Santa Fe and Ahmedabad.
Anderson translated Benglis’ metallic sculptures into striking fan-shaped dresses made of metallic plissé silk. He reimagined her 1970s gestures in materials such as beeswax and polyurethane, resulting in remarkable suits—a particularly striking leaf-shaped Bar jacket over a twisting beehive skirt.
Benglis’ early visit to India sparked a series of peacock-inspired embroidered fans, which were integrated into twisting silk columns. A feminist icon, Benglis famously funded her own promotional pages in Art Forum magazine, featuring provocative imagery. Anderson’s collection included a carefully obscured version of one of these images, presenting bold looks during the show held on the opening day of the four-day event.
“We obviously blurred the ad— we needed to avoid any controversies,” Anderson remarked during a preview with Elite Traveler, just before models walked down a runway adorned with lush ferns in the garden of the Rodin Museum.
Having recently dressed Taylor Swift for what many consider the decade’s most talked-about wedding, it was only fitting that the most discussed design was Dior’s bridal gown, especially since Swift has yet to share images from the occasion.
When inquired about its details, the typically outspoken Couturier became understated, stating, “It has been an honor to dress her for this significant event.” His grand finale was a romantic wedding dress artfully embroidered with delicate fern patterns—a true highlight of the collection.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli presented a surrealist collection that departed from traditional fabrics, with American designer Daniel Roseberry opting for latex, silicone, and coated sheets to create dramatic boleros and jackets topped with bold bows.
Roseberry skillfully manipulated the form, producing sculptural bustiers that evolved into textured cocktails and jumpsuits featuring tubular extensions.
Renowned for his striking silhouettes and inventive techniques, Daniel Roseberry delighted the audience, which included the likes of Bad Bunny, who sported a custom cream Schiaparelli zoot suit paired with a golden knit tie amid a sea of attendees clad in black accented with gold.
The palette for this collection featured bright lobster pink, porcelain blush, sea blues, and shimmering tangerine and saffron hues. A standing ovation greeted Roseberry, underscoring Schiaparelli’s consistent brilliance over the past decade.
Armani Privé
During Couture Week, an elite front row made for memorable fashion moments. Emma Corin dazzled at Schiaparelli, while Chanel attracted Michele Leo. Tilda Swinton graced the front row at the French house, and Dior welcomed Sabrina Carpenter, Josh O’Connor, and Naomi Watts.
Yet, the elegance peaked at Armani Privé, where stars like Cate Blanchett, Rosamund Pike, Lou Doillon, Laura Harrier, and Cindy Bruna turned heads in chic black velvet tuxedos. Adding to the allure were renowned composer Ludovico Einaudi and étoile dancer Hugo Marchand.
In the wake of Giorgio Armani’s passing, his niece Silvana Armani has taken the design reins for Privé. The focus was on classic elegance interlaced with experimentation, showcasing a striking array of masculine jackets in a moody color palette of dark greens and rich burgundies paired with sequined evening gowns that beckoned for awards season.
Silvana eloquently shared, “Choosing an outfit becomes a ritual that unveils layers of a woman’s inner life.” Under Giorgio’s will, the family must sell at least 15 percent of the brand by March 2027, yet both Silvana and menswear designer Leo Dell’Orca appear content to carry on and further the legacy with assured style.
Chanel
Chanel’s presentation unfolded like a whimsical fairy tale amid a garden of poisoned ivy, evoking imagery from childhood classics. Outfits featured shaggy redingotes, cloche hats, and shoes with vine-like heels, echoing elements from storybook characters. Classic four-pocket suits were reimagined in icy guipure lace and rich tweed, contrasting with mannish three-piece suits styled with miniskirts. Delicate chiffon cocktails with gold trim added a modern touch.
The atmosphere was intriguingly offset by a soundtrack of a housewife discussing mundane chores, painting a vivid picture of her daily life. Following the show, singer Vanessa Paradis, cast in an iconic ad for Chanel 35 years prior, delivered a captivating performance at the post-show celebration.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga showcased a stunning debut collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli, representing the 55th couture showing since Cristobal Balenciaga’s establishment in Paris in 1937. The designs featured an artistic exploration that utilized 3D scans to create molded leather pieces combined with fluid gowns, and dresses adorned with densely packed fabric flowers.
The collection embraced innovation with Amsilk, a bioengineered, eco-friendly material lauded for its strength and distinctive sheen, prominently displayed amidst the radiant sunlight of the Cité Université campus.
Couture is regarded as a platform for both artistic exploration and engineering precision. Piccioli captured this vision, taking a collective bow alongside his atelier team, all clad in laboratory coats, during the presentation set to Anthony and The Johnson’s evocative music.
Rahul Mishra
Delhi’s Rahul Mishra presented a breathtaking collection inspired by the Ajanta caves, encompassing ancient Buddhist artworks. His offerings included striking gray and black silhouettes that employed intricate hand embroidery, mimicking sandstone textures and basalt forms.
Utilizing traditional Indian embroidery techniques such as Zardozzi and Dabka, he adorned fabrics with crystals and bugle beads, resulting in unique trompe-l’oeil designs. Though some elements felt chaotic, culminating in oversized fabric arches and dazzling bridal options dusted with crystals, the collection left a lasting impression. Front-row attendee Cardi B ignited a media frenzy, overshadowed only by the presence of Isha Mambani, daughter of prominent billionaire Mukesh Ambani, who has significantly supported Mishra’s journey.
Held in the historic College des Bernadins, this presentation emphasized the vital influence of Indian craftsmanship and inspiration in the fashion industry.
Standing Ground
Fashion witnessed an exceptional debut from Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground at the Irish Embassy. Emerging from a low profile, this County Clare-born designer stunned the audience with a successful capsule collection in 2023 for Fashion East. Subsequently, he secured the prestigious Savoir Faire award during the 2024 LVMH Prize.
Stewart’s designs embody a spiritual elegance with their long, monochromatic robes featuring concealed beadwork and subtle tubes. His ability to drape fabric with precision is evident in twisting gowns crafted from rich shades—Yves Klein blue, sinful crimson, and burnt umber.
Expressing gratitude for his reception in Paris, Stewart noted, “I feel very welcomed here.” For his premiere, he unveiled a groundbreaking wedding dress featuring abstract handmade Carrickmacross lace, created over the course of 4,000 hours by a collective of 26 artisans, showcasing the heritage of Irish craftsmanship.
Stéphane Rolland
Stéphane Rolland continually captivates audiences, as demonstrated in his tribute to Dalida, the iconic Italo-French singer. Presenting at the historic Olympia theater, where Dalida’s career was launched, models paraded while a large screen displayed Dalida performing “Avec Le Temps.”
The collection, primarily in black and white, showcased an array of sophisticated French glamour, featuring trouser jumpsuits, elegant bustier gowns adorned with ostrich feathers, and an exquisite scarf dress embellished with onyx and gold silicone detailing. Rolland presented not radical experimentation, but a refined elegance characteristic of his style.
Iris Van Herpen
Iris Van Herpen’s couture pushes boundaries, drawing inspiration from the Victorian inventor Margaret Watts Hughes, whose experiments with sound laid the groundwork for future technologies. The resulting collection manifested in ethereal garments where cascading chiffons and organzas were meticulously pleated into sweeping silhouettes and supported by intricate carbon-fiber frameworks.
A highlight was the climactic one-shoulder tulle dress adorned with 10,000 hand-blown glass spheres, a work of art more suited for a museum than daily wardrobes. Nonetheless, her commitment to innovation culminated in a remarkable expression of creativity.
Boloria
The avant-garde slot this season at couture was filled by Boloria, a venture backed by the Beers brothers, creators of Tomorrowland, conceived by Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens. His return showcased a powerful evolution of gothic themes that once impressed Madonna, presenting dramatic gowns in extensive anthracite technical taffeta and streamlined ensembles made of wool or lambskin, topped off by a lively cast of models dressed for nocturnal escapades.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab’s showcase featured a stunning interplay of realism and surrealism, highlighted by a sweeping organza gown inspired by Magritte’s clouds and a floor-sweeping silk dress embellished with Dali-esque floral motifs. His skillful drapery transformed lilac metallic silk and rich shantung into organic silhouettes that felt as if they emerged from nature. The collection, aptly titled “The Ball of Untamed Dreams,” included fantastical ball gowns adorned with wing-like structures, illustrating Saab’s growing artistic scope.
Jean-Paul Gaultier
The final highlight of the event was Jean-Paul Gaultier’s show directed by Duran Lantink, which combined the house’s signature elements with striking structural experimentation. Gaultier’s renowned bustiers were reinterpreted in blood-red Meccano leather and deconstructed blouse forms, alongside a fresh take on traditional courtier jackets crafted from faded denim and patchwork leather.
His most unexpected creation featured tulle trains from ball gowns positioned at the forefront, with tuxedo jackets and satin blousons surging with fabric. The collection radiated shock value reminiscent of the Chapman Brothers, including a mesmeric pink feathered column with three swan-like necks seamlessly integrated into a singular torso, culminating in stunning haute couture that challenged the boundaries of convention.
