“Previously on ‘Outlander,’” a wife jokingly remarks to her husband as they gaze at the breathtaking cliffs overlooking the turbulent waters of the northern Atlantic during their Neist Point Walk on the Isle of Skye.
This outing is part of a weeklong expedition as the tourist season in Scotland begins to taper off. Their journey through this beautiful landscape provides a much-needed escape, aided by the limited cell service that is common on this stretch of the Isle of Skye. They humorously label themselves as reverse commuters: travelers who prefer to explore during the shoulder and off seasons. This is a trend gaining recognition among travel advisors and the industry at large, with airlines like Delta extending their transatlantic flight offerings to accommodate those who travel once school resumes.
The appeal of Scotland goes beyond its rugged landscapes and whisky. The country lacks a defined “off” season; instead, it experiences a period when the scenery becomes much more inviting. The midges have largely disappeared, and the single-track roads become less daunting, allowing for stress-free navigation. The slower pace permits exploration of quaint towns and opportunities for genuine relaxation.
Up the Loch and Into the Heart of Scotland
Starting in Edinburgh, they pick up their rental car and set off for The Pierhouse Hotel. Located near Port Appin, close to Oban, the journey takes nearly three hours, passing through increasingly lush landscapes. This diverse scenery sparks thoughts about farming, dreams of raising sheep, and perhaps even writing a novel. As the road winds into Port Appin and views of Loch Linnhe and the Isle of Lismore emerge, the couple’s city-induced stress begins to dissolve, perfectly timed as the sun dips below the horizon.
The Pierhouse Hotel
The couple quickly finds comfort at The Pierhouse. Cozy accommodations, afternoon tea, and creative cocktails at The Ferry Bar set the tone for relaxation. The Michelin-awarded Lismore Dining Room serves up local seafood delicacies—langoustines, scallops, mussels, and oysters that showcase the local waters. For those who can, the hearty roasts and savory Isle of Mull cheddar soufflé are worthy mentions. While dinner draws food enthusiasts, the warmth of The Ferry Bar becomes an afternoon retreat for comfortable reading and soaking in the local social scene, where friendly locals rendezvous with their well-behaved dogs.
Given that Oban boasts more bustling activities—coffee stops, whisky tours, and shops—Port Appin and the tranquil Loch Linnhe setting provide a more restful gateway into a week-long adventure in Scotland.
The Allure of Skye
The drive through Glencoe toward the Isle of Skye is nothing short of breathtaking. The weather fluctuates from crisp clarity to sudden snow flurries, each change revealing more drama in the ever-shifting landscape. Frequent stops for photography become necessary before they cross the Skye Bridge and approach The Three Chimneys, a restaurant with suites that has attracted culinary pilgrims for decades.
The Three Chimneys Restaurant
Chef Paul Green curates menus that celebrate Hebridean cuisine—think hand-dived scallops, Skye langoustine, and Vatten Farm hogget, among others. The inviting ambiance encourages camaraderie with fellow diners, creating a sense of community. Guests may even hear charming tales about local folklore navigating the waters, a fitting accompaniment to their mountain of good food.
The Three Chimneys’ collaboration with Talisker Distillery highlights a commitment to local producers. Occasionally the snug suites boast Skye Weavers blankets, perfect for those wanting to bring a piece of the experience back home. While some visitors may opt for two nights focused entirely on dining, this couple enjoyed three nights of exploration, appreciating the flexibility of the restaurant menu accommodating repeat guests. They were tempted, but opted to avoid a nightly tasting menu.
They also sought some physical activity to offset hearty dinners. The Neist Point Walk extends four miles round-trip to the island’s westernmost point. The trail descends past a lighthouse, where cliffs drop dramatically into the Atlantic. On clear days, views of the Outer Hebrides beckon, providing a solitary escape that recharges the soul amidst the bleating of a nearby flock of sheep.
The Three Chimneys Restaurant
Highland Encounters and Boutique Wisdom
Post-Skye adventures lead them east, into Perthshire, where they discover The Old Manse of Blair. Here, guests face a delightful choice: partake in warm drams by the fire or bond with the resident Highland cows—both of which are equally endearing. These gentle giants, Seamus and Séoras, tend to regard visitors with genuine affection, likely aided by the treats brought by the guests.
Choosing to engage with both, the couple learns that the cows provide warmth and personality that rivals even the finest drams. This restored Victorian manse welcomes travelers with its charming hospitality, perfectly situated for exploring the verdant surroundings of “Big Tree Country.” Blair Castle stands nearby for history enthusiasts, while The Old Manse delivers an authentic Scottish experience infused with modern comforts.
In case one wonders, Seamus and Séoras have developed a taste for croissants, though the early morning farewell features only brown bread—much to their indifference.
The Old Manse of Blair
Returning to Edinburgh
The final evening is spent in Edinburgh at The Balmoral, a landmark hotel known for its clock tower that stands three minutes fast to ensure travelers catch their trains below. The city, once a blur of jet lag, reveals itself more completely—full of charm and character with each moment passing. (A more detailed review of the property is forthcoming.)
A week filled with peaceful loch-side moments, newfound friends in Highland cows, and limited cell service—these elements recalibrate daily life. While some may depend on connectivity, the couple finds comfort in evenings spent reading in local pubs, content to step away from social media and emails. Experiencing Scotland’s quieter side reveals the beauty of exploring without a crowd. In this serene backdrop, well-timed humor seems to land just right, and her husband would certainly agree.
